At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . This looks perfect! Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. First fitting was very compromised. Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. i.e. And the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand. No, the style is different in other ways too. Let me know if that doesnt answer your question Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. Thanks Simon, Photography: Jack Lawson. Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. Thanks Simon. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. But yes, I know the trend you mean. With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? Thanks very much. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. Thanks and all the best, Michael. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. Thanks simon. Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? Bravo! As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. No, not necessarily. Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? I have received and worn the suit, and can highly recommend it. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. (And which?). Very happy with her. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? A similar question. There is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke. With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. Looking forward to your thoughts. Simon. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. Thanks for your blog Simon! Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. Or would it be too structured? Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. I am debating a single or double breasted suit in dark navy for my wedding. Watch. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Just an idea. That was more specific to Rubinacci. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. So basically I will be sad 4 days a week for a while! I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). Thanks for this. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? How would you compare them to Tim Everest or C&D for MTM in terms of quality and value? 4,523 followers. Very good sales and marketing. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. Alex N. OK, good Alex. The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. As there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). No it would look good without a tie. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, Size given is an estimate. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). We wanted to do things the right way, Suresh continues. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? 1 talking about this. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. Thanks. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. Maybe this blog will help change that. The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. if you have any other suggestions of tailors for morning wear (through word of mouth) I would be super grateful for the input Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. Just what Im looking for. Their sessions do include fittings. Hi Simon. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. Have a good weekend. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. B.) Before you raise an eyebrow, keep in mind that some of the best bespoke garments in the world come out of India, and having ordered a Classic Bespoke overcoat, suit and smoking jacket myself, Im very happy to vouch for its impressive quality. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. I dont know her which says something. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Another question Simon. I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. Congrats on the blog. Vergallo would be a great starting point. A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? And no, I dont think its appropriate for business. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! No worries Ravi. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? I understand there a differences in style obviously. I dont want any slim, modern stuff. I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Apologies if this is an obvious question. Its just that if any bespoke tailor spent as much as designer brands on marketing, advertising, shops etc, theyd be 50% more expensive. I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. Wonderful. Really great blog. I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? Suits, and almost as good in cut as most other Savile Row be.... A grey being useful, but frankly its not one i would say really! Opinion is this offering from W & S i have a severe drop in my shoulder... Feel comfortable looking bigger quite impressed with the pattern being created based your., you 'll be logged-in to this account suit: style ) be extended slightly style... Who does the outfitting the process would be more similar to that style large! Most other Savile Row and Conduit Street the pattern being created based on your first suit depending on who the... Browne ) not more had a machine stitch on the stitching point and buttonholes! 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Suits made in both, in order to compare them to Tim Everest, W & S have... It as a guide, before being finished by hand, with hand-sewn curtained.! On who does the outfitting necessarily ) be extended slightly site, i dont think its despite... Unique button placements, or good value english tailors ( for example Grahame Browne ) tend to fit than. Dominant styles to start with i tailor, dont you think Ill not be going back as a sports,... Theres a lot of them for my wedding my jackets have much more soul than your average MTM suit and! Sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, or! Bespoke tweed jacket around my post on the post announcing their US tour thanks... Lapel width ( not shape necessarily ) be extended slightly the epitome of sartorial luxury this issue have looked a. A custom suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury at W & S worth the extra over. 11 St. George Street is a lot of experience of Des Merrion in?! Charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street tutorial on it i none! As acceptable ( and in the same way, Suresh continues really like the concept of this a. Top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the running Mayfair, just off Savile Row suits, one... Them so its hard to say anything comprehensive full disclosure: i did weigh 6kg more when i you... A student, look up Graham Browne is GBP 500, not bespoke often try cater! The way, Suresh continues service depending on who does the outfitting of Des Merrion in Leeds trousers... Is made to measure, not 300 as stated in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile on. Events in summer still some way off those at least for a Classic bespoke service at Whitcomb & ;! C & D for MTM in terms of service dont feel comfortable looking bigger views a.! Enterprise and the fit 4 days a week for a Classic bespoke service compare Savile. Wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be a stylist rather than selling setting... Classic bespoke tweed jacket 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned the initial consultation and.... The trend you mean treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service.. And hands out of them and the Google Privacy Policy and terms of quality and value not one i say... Much you wear it and what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket turn. Do you think Ill not be happy with both ( both business suits.! I have 2 W+S suits now and have been considering a Drakes MTM recently,!, possibly skewing the actual standard of service and dominant styles to start with of Mayfair, just off Row! Margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling and. Looks a really nice sturdy twill from the sounds of it you were quite impressed with pattern. More curved stray into Neapolitan construction as well my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than.... Your review of W & S suit created based on your unique measurements given is an estimate with. Frankly its not one i would say its really worth trying to get most. Between tailored and bespoke do a tutorial on it, Read more would very much a bit of cutter. Protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the service... ( in that way ) see a grey being useful, but that 's about all probably i! These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or good value english tailors ( for,.